volume 8, number 3 March 2003
New Mexico's Premier Food, Arts and Lifestyle Magazine

Raw

Although it is sleeting and miserable as I write this, I know that spring is near and the level of activity among restaurants is hitting a fever pitch, especially Downtown. Burt's Tiki Lounge (Gold between Second and Third) is now serving a short menu of multicultural Asian-inspired snacks like Hawaiian chicken nachos, fried coconut shrimp and teriyaki beef satays. Kitchen goddess Lara Jean Anderson's menu changes often but always pairs well with Mai Tais and the surfin' safari motif. Stop in for a snack from happy hour until early evening Tuesday through Saturday (the hours vary).

Through the alley and across Central, Gary Nelson and Craig Brownrig are cooking up a Cajun storm at Mesa Azul (215 Central NW), a coffee shop that they take over on Thursday, Friday and Saturday nights. The result, as proclaimed by a funky painted sandwich board on the sidewalk, is Hoodoo Moon Nights. From 6pm until 3am, the pair serve up a gustatory smorgasbord of jambalaya, oyster gumbo, shrimp étouffée, jambalaya-filled burritos and bread pudding with whiskey sauce. Hoodoo Moon Nights is the perfect post-bar relax-and-refuel destination.

Meanwhile, at the intersection of Central and Fourth, construction continues on Maloney's Tavern (on the northeast corner that used to be occupied by Walgreen's) which is scheduled to open this month. Apparently the Maloney's people are papering the walls with hundred dollar bills; that is to say, they're spending a pretty penny on the build-out of this Cheers-type beer and burgers joint. Expect Maloney's to be really, really disappointed if they can't open by St. Patrick's Day.

Across the promenade from Maloney's, Raw is changing things up with a new menu and a more nightclubby vibe. As of mid-February, Raw is no longer serving sushi, having replaced the rolls and nigiri with a brief Asian tapas-style menu that includes perfectly salty edamame, fried potstickers, crab cakes and a delicious Hawaiian poke: cubes of sashimi-grade ahi tuna, drizzled with a gingery soy and sesame oil sauce. New items, like spicy Asian shrimp cocktail (with yuzu and Japanese chiles) are being added all the time by Chef Robert Pallares. Also new is a stronger focus on the post-dinner dance club scene. Both Raw and next door neighbor Sauce/Liquid Lounge will undergo facelifts in the next couple of months. The owners are hoping to cultivate an early dinner crowd and then move on into a heavy boom-cha-boom-cha scene with a more intimate feel and décor that's conducive to dancing.

Meanwhile, Nick's, the homey Greek sandwich shop that had been on Fourth just south of Central for two decades moved up to the corner, facing Raw, and got a new name, Nick's Crossroads Café. Owner Nick Manole spent a surprisingly short period of time renovating the building (remember, it used be Marco's, the tobacco shop), uncovering and refinishing the beautiful wood floors and adding floor-to-ceiling windows. But fans of Nick's shouldn't get their knickers in a twist, the simple Greek and American fare that you were used to at Nick's hasn't changed a bit. You can still run in for a burger or a gyro without spending too much time or money.

Artichoke Café (Central and Edith) is also planning to remodel this month, enlarging the underused back room and patio to accommodate bigger parties. Owner Terry Keene says they're also planning to "freshen up the look" with a new coat of paint and a little redecorating. Look for new lighting, more banquettes and a more spacious feel. Also, look for an open sign. Keene says they won't have to close at all in order to complete the renovations.

Got a hankering for French food tonight? Check out La Cuisine, the cozy little bistro at 3000 San Pedro NE. La Cocinita regrets that the wording in our "Critics Choice" issue made it sound like La Cuisine had closed. Far from it! Chef Thomas Cote is cranking out lunch six days a week and dinner every night. If you haven't been to La Cuisine since owners Robert and Marie Moryn took over last year, then you owe it to yourself to stop in and treat yourself to a fine, fine meal.

Do you have news that I should know about? Call 346-0660 ext. 245 or e-mail foodnews@lacocinita.com.

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