volume 7, number 12 December 2002
New Mexico's Premier Food, Arts and Lifestyle Magazine

Making tamales in the kitchen with Mujeres en AcciâÄîn

Five-month old Gisele Granados might be giggling at her mother's caresses. Or perhaps it's the cooing Spanish endearments from the aproned women heading to the kitchen that fill her with delight. Or maybe the aromas of simmering green chile, chicken, vegetables and pork are arousing her baby tastebuds, filling her with anticipation of meals in the years ahead, when breast milk and Gerber's won't even linger in memory. Although the scents and sounds mimic those found in many New Mexican households, little Gisele isn't at home or in day care. Instead, she's accompanied her mother, Alicia Granados, to work at Mujeres en Acción.

The members of Mujeres en Acción—Women in Action—work together in a church kitchen on South Broadway, making tamales from traditional recipes. Like many immigrant women, they sell their creations to those of us longing for masa stuffed with finely seasoned meats, cheeses and vegetables. While the cooking and conversation are second nature, the business skills the women develop are a steppingstone to a better life. Many of the women Mujeres en Acción (MEA) helps train have experienced domestic violence. With emotional support and enhanced job skills, members become independent for the first time, eventually moving on to better relationships and jobs in the community.

Alicia Granados, program coordinator, cuddles Gisele as she explains that MEA is a training program that's "a lot of work, not just making food for friends." In order to sell commercially, MEA's kitchen is USDA-inspected and has been licensed by the city of Albuquerque. "We're inspected every day that we cook," Alicia says as she shows off a sparkling stovetop and counters. My own kitchen should look half as spotless.

Right now Bertha Campos presides over a cauldron of chicken and green chile. A native of Durango, Mexico and manager of production, Bertha smiles when I ask her about the recipes. "They're traditional, from the kitchens of our families," she says. "Surely there must be some slight differences," I insist. "So who makes the final recipe decision?" Bertha's blush informs me that I'm looking at the master chef of this operation.

Touring the kitchen and inhaling the aromas, it's difficult to fathom that MEA first began as a ceramics co-op in 1997. "It's very difficult to sell ceramics," Alicia says. "With our prices we couldn't compete with Wal-Mart. We decided to switch and make tamales to pay the bills. First we sold them to the immigrant community and now we sell to La Montañita Co-op and Grocery Emporium. We teach the women how to make the tamales all the same so they're consistent. We offer daycare, too."

"Wait a minute," I interrupt, incredulous. "They sell tamales made with lard at the co-op?"

"Only the pork tamales," Alicia explains. "We make the others with canola oil." Turns out the La Montañita food buyer demurred from pork until a tasting. I can only presume that taste trumped fear of animal fats.

Because the only fresh tamales available are the chicken with green chile, I am invited to come back the next day when all five flavors will be newly made. Twist my arm. When I arrive Bertha bustles out of the kitchen with a warm bag of wrapped tamales. "Are you the only cook?" I ask. It's a little slow now, she explains, with two or three women, but around holiday season at least eight work full time. "May I speak with other workers?" I ask, but am told that many of the women don't want their stories in the paper. Some are frightened that I'll expose their whereabouts to former partners. Others feel uncomfortable revealing the darker details of their lives. Fair enough. The basics, I'm told, are that most are immigrants, their ages ranging from 20 to 50. Some are referred from area shelters, with more than 50 percent victims of domestic violence. Most speak limited English with an average sixth-grade education. At MEA, all are trained in subjects like bookkeeping, personal computing, English as a second language, quality control, time management, sales, marketing, GED preparation, cooperative decision-making, problem solving and leadership skills.

These lofty ideals have produced a wonderful track record. But when I take a forkful of my first tamale, such ideals leave my mind. The pork fills my mouth with rich zings of cumin and red chile—a combination that must delight the gods of gourmet. Being a carnivore, I admit the pork ranks as my favorite, followed by the chicken and green chile and then the cheese with green chile. The two flavors for vegans—zucchini and mushrooms, and black bean—taste just fine. A catering menu reveals that the women will make other traditional Mexican delicacies on special order, including posole and empanadas filled with sweet potatoes or pumpkin. Sounds like I'll have to order enough for the family and the freezer. I can already tell who's catering my holiday party. Gracias las mujeres.

In Albuquerque you can find tamales from Mujeres en Acción in the deli and in the frozen foods section at La Montañita Co-op (Central and Carlisle, Rio Grande and Matthew), as well as at Grocery Emporium (Girard and Indian School). If you're catering a small or large party, you can order directly from Mujeres en Acción. Call them at 243-5584 to place your order; since December is their busiest month, remember to order as early as possible.

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