volume 7, number 12 December 2002
New Mexico's Premier Food, Arts and Lifestyle Magazine

Albert Bilotti, Joaquin Garofalo and Carrie Eagle

As I write this column I am staring at the invitation to Al's New York Pizza Department's Grand Opening, scheduled for just a few days after we go to press. It seems as though we've been waiting forever for this place to open, though really it's only been a few months. Thank god native New Yorker Albert Bilotti (the former owner of Nob Hill's Kanome) and his partners have actually made real what downtown denizens have dreaming about for years: an authentic slice-and-a-soda pizza joint right on Central (between Second and Third streets). Stop by and grab a snack for yourself or call 505-766-NYPD (6976) to see if they're delivering yet.

Congratulations to Andrea Schulte, a pastry chef at Hilton of Albuquerque (University and Menaul), who was the $10,000 grand prize winner in a national Bacardi rum recipe contest. The competition, open to all graduates of the culinary programs at Johnson and Wales University, was held in October at the Johnson and Wales campus in Denver, Co. Schulte's creation, a molten chocolate Bacardi O cake with orange vanilla sauce, beat out 250 other entrants—all professionally trained, remember! I asked Schulte what she planned to do with the money, expecting her to give me some chef version of, "I'm going to Disneyland," like, "I'm going to The French Laundry!" But no, the same smart lady who figured out that orange-flavored rum would taste good in a chocolate cake plans to pay off a few bills and save the rest for a rainy day. Schulte graduated from J&W's Charleston campus in 2000 and has been working at the Hilton for about a year. This month she will be introducing several of her creations to the Ranchers Club menu, including a trio of liqueur-infused créme brûlées, chocolate caramel hazelnut tart, lemon mascarpone cheesecake with biscotti crust and blackberry compote, and double chocolate chip cherry torte. Schulte also bakes caramelized onion walnut bread daily for the restaurant. Stop in and say hello and congratulate the chef on her big win!

In a bit of sad restaurant news, last month Fajitaville (Montgomery and Juan Tabo) did indeed close its doors forever. The Northeast Heights coastal Mexican restaurant was the second location opened by chef/owner Matt Nichols. The original Fourth Street location (just north of Osuna) was sold to former Fajitaville employee, Dennis Apodaca, last year and he renamed it Sophia's Place. So don't get confused, Sophia's is still open! When we spoke in November, Nichols told me he was sad to see the place go, but also very excited about Monte Vista Firestation where he has set a much-needed kitchen renaissance into play.

Next time you dine at Le Café Miche (1431 Wyoming NE), be sure to order a glass of the 2001 Château Miche Pinot Noir. This private-label wine, made by Albuquerque's Gruet Winery, is the result of many months of tasting and planning on the part of Miche owner Claus Hjortkjaer, winemaker Laurent Gruet and a group of loyal friends and customers who took part in a barrel tasting earlier this year. I was lucky enough to score an invitation to that tasting and was part of the coterie who voted on a dozen or so different barrel samples to come up with the winning blend. The wine was officially released on Wednesday, Nov. 20 to participants in one of the restaurant's regular wine and food pairing classes, and fêted throughout that weekend with a special Gruet wine-pairing menu.

Speaking of personalized wines, making your own barrel selection is probably out of most peoples' price range, but personalized gift labels might not be. Casa Rondeña (733 Chavez NW) will plaster whatever you want all over bottles of their Cabernet Franc, Riesling or Sauvignon Blanc. Yes, you have to buy at least three cases, but hey, you won't have any other holiday shopping to do! Call 505-344-5911 for more details.

The Westside finally has a good grocery store with Sunflower Market (10701 Coors NE) which opened in October. I had heard about it from several readers but couldn't quite remember where it was until one Sunday I found myself in the parking lot, staring right at it. Never one to pass up a trip to the grocery store, I decided to do a little shopping. The place has a fine produce section and many of the same natural foods that you'd find at La Montañita Co-op, Wild Oats or Whole Foods. I did notice, however, that many of the prices were lower. I stocked up on banana Power Bars (at $.99 each) and the Ethnic Chef frozen lunches I hesitate to admit I'm addicted to. The store also has a pretty good selection of well-priced beer, wine and liquor. Sunflower Market is open from 8am until 9pm every day.

I've long thought that Samurai Grill (9500 Montgomery NE) has Albuquerque's best combination of stunning sushi and beautiful atmosphere. The good news is that owner Miki Broder is planning on opening a second location next month. Broder also happens to be the owner of the building at 5701 Gibson SE that was most recently occupied by Fortune Cookie (a business Broder sold several years ago). In the wake of Fortune Cookie's departure, she decided to remodel the space and bring fine sushi to an area of town sorely lacking Japanese food. The Gibson location will be much smaller than the existing Samurai, about half the space, but it will serve a similar menu. Though still in the construction and planning stages as of late November, Broder said she was optimistic that the restaurant would bring new life to a neglected part of Gibson.

And remember, many family-owned restaurants take holidays in December, so be sure to call ahead and make a reservation!

If you've got information that you think belongs in this column, please don't hesitate to call 346-0660 ext. 245 or e-mail foodnews@lacocinita.com.

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