volume 7, number 10 October 2002
New Mexico's Premier Food, Arts and Lifestyle Magazine

Kim Muller of Cheesecraft

Fall foliage forecasters tell us that due to the drought this year, the aspens will be particularly vibrant when they explode into color this October. Fall food forecasters have lots to report as well.

Cheesecraft (505-310-2628) is the new love child of foodie Kim Muller and supplies artisan and farmstead cheeses from around the world. Kim, who has previously worked in many of Santa Fe's top restaurants, including the short-lived Double A and Escalera, is a bona fide cheesehead and it shows in her passion and knowledge about cheese. Though right now only supplying restaurants and limited retail stores, Muller hopes to have a retail space of her own very soon. Kim tries to seek out as many raw milk cheeses as she can get her hands on and a peek at her list of products lists cheeses from the four corners of the world. Apart from an extensive selection of American cheese, there are goodies from England (Colston Bassett Stilton), France (Roquefort Carles), Holland (Aged Goat's Milk Gouda), Switzerland (Cave Aged Gruyère), Spain (Garroxta) and Italy (Pecorino Toscano). Cheesecraft will also train retail staff as well as help restaurateurs and gourmet groups develop cheese courses for their menus. Watch for the wonderful selection of Muller's cheese at Whole Foods and feel free to contact Kim directly with cheese questions, she loves talking cheese.

The Hoback family, who own and operate the legendary Pink Adobe (505-983-7712), have joined the prepared gourmet foods scene with three terrific sauces, based on the recipes of matriarch and founder Rosalie Murphy. The first three items they're offering are the Pink Adobe's famous rum hard sauce (to be served on hot apple pie), a zippy green chile relish and a sweet red chile barbecue sauce. Available at The Pink Adobe and at The Santa Fe School of Cooking gift shop, the yummy sauces offer visitors and locals the opportunity to take home a delicious jar of heritage from one of Santa Fe's oldest and most famous restaurants. I gobbled up a quesadilla that I made with the green chile relish and sharp cheddar cheese. It was delish. The barbecue sauce features New Mexico red chile but there's a definite nod to Rosalie's New Orleans kinfolk with the smokiness of bacon and that subtle sweetness southerners love. The hard sauce is so rich and buttery it'll make your teeth ache, but hey that's what dessert is all about. Congratulations to the Hoback family and to Pink Adobe chef Edward Lyons for recreating and bottling this scrumptious part of Santa Fe history. The production and distribution of the product line is being looked after by Greg Duneen from Santa Fe Seasons. Greg is the developer of the Coyote Cafe's successful gourmet food line so expect to find the sauces in local groceries soon. By the way, the Pink Adobe's hot apple pie is available, frozen, at Kaune's on Old Santa Fe Trail.

While in Taos late last month I heard two foodies talking about a fabulous new Asian restaurant there called Zen Ranch (see Taste of Taos for details). As it turns out, the Eldorado Zen is no more and has been replaced by The Firehouse (505-466-3700). Zimmer is still the boss but chef Jono Berssenbrugge is looking after the cooking. Tempting menu items include buttermilk-battered rock shrimp, whiskey brown sugar borracho beans and lots of grilled organic meats and fish. There's also a short section of the old Zen favorites hiding out at the bottom of the menu.

Fresh chile is certainly on everybody's mind at this time of year, so it seemed appropriate that the former Peppers on Old Pecos Trail has been renovated and reborn as Fresh Peppers (505-984-2272). A fire in the attached motel office brought about an opportunity to spruce up the 10-year-old restaurant while repairs were being made to the motel units. The new Fresh Peppers menu is a tempting mix of Mexican cantina food, and smoked and rotisserie-cooked meats. I was particularly tempted by the blue corn brisket salad and the grilled shrimp tamale salad. Prices are gentle, there's a full bar and even a small wine and beer shop in the front lobby. Fresh Peppers is open 7 days a week for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Stop by soon and say hi to friendly manager Enrique.

Joan Gillcrist from Andiamo! (505-995-9595) recently filled me in on what's been happening at her popular Italian eatery. Andiamo! just celebrated its eighth anniversary with some subtle renovations and a fresh coat of paint.

Oooops, the correct number for the new Asado is 505-986-9963. Sorry guys!

If you have news for the Santa Fe Scoop please call 346-0660 ext. 245 or e-mail foodnews@lacocinita.com.

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