volume 7, number 9 September 2002
New Mexico's Premier Food, Arts and Lifestyle Magazine

The former home of Kanome--new home of Graze

There's so much going on in the Duke City these days, with restaurants opening and closing, chefs hopping around and changing their formats. Downtown is definitely the focus of much of the fuss, with many exciting new dining options planned in and near the Century 14 Downtown theater complex at First Street and Central Avenue. A year from now we'll probably have Thai, Brazilian, Pan-Asian and Cajun food all within a block of the theater.

Just a few blocks west, on Central between Fourth and Fifth Streets, a second location of Zeus Juice opened last month. Banking on the success of his original University-area store (near Blockbuster at Central and Girard), owner Michael Broder was looking to expand and chose Downtown because, "Downtown is coming back strong and we wanted a presence there." Both Zeus Juices stock a similar selection of nutritional supplements, sports nutrition products, energy bars and meal replacements; both whip up the same menu of juices and smoothies to order. But the Downtown Zeus will also soon be delivering. That's right, they'll deliver! In a delivery-starved city, those words are sweet, sweet music to our ears. But the best thing about Zeus' delivery is their utterly unique delivery vehicle, a pint-sized, one-seater, all-electric car of the future called a Sparrow (as seen in Austin Powers in Goldmember.) Right now Broder is still ramping up the store's services and feeling out what the surrounding community wants, so call (505-842-9387) and ask about hours, delivery and when they expect to start making sushi!

On the other side of Downtown, Starz closed suddenly in the beginning of August, barely six months after it opened. What a tragedy. Some say that space (attached to the recently renovated Silver Moon Lodge) is cursed, but I disagree. It may be difficult, but not cursed. It has a huge parking lot, for one thing, which is a real rarity in parking-challenged Downtown. But perhaps the strain of waiting endlessly for a liquor license, simultaneously opening two restaurants, being a father to a newborn and writing a cookbook (all in another city!) were factors in chef/owner James Campbell-Caruso's failing struggle to make it work. We wish him continued success at his two Canyon Road restaurants in Santa Fe, El Farol and Canyon. Let's all hope that someone else comes in and does something new and fun with that pretty space.

A few blocks northeast of Starz, near the new courthouses, Sugar Plums Coffee House has reopened after a six month hiatus (515 Slate between Fifth and Sixth Streets, 505-242-8520). Mary Sullivan's charming little snack spot shares a building with her husband Sean Sullivan's business, Catering by Design. While Mary serves comforting breakfasts and lunches to downtown attorneys, Sean is busy whipping up culturally appropriate meals for foreign delegates at Kirtland Air Force Base. Stop by Sugar Plums on a Tuesday morning for the $4 all-you-can-eat pancake special, or call for delivery of one of the box lunches made so popular by sequestered juries! Sugar Plums delivers all over the downtown area. Ah, delivery.

The former Fred's Bread and Bagel (3009 Central NE) will finally be put to good use when Keith Roessler, nephew of Roger Roessler, departs his managerial post at his uncle's restaurant, Seasons Rotisserie and Grill (2031 Mountain Road NW, 505-766-5100), and opens a three-level neighborhood bistro, wine bar and blues club in the old Fred's sometime this winter. The younger Roessler told me that he and his partners (who include Seasons chef Chris Pope) plan an extensive remodeling job that will turn the space's existing partial third level into a glass-enclosed wine room, the main floor into a laid-back but swank dining room and the basement (remember that old cybercafe?) into a wine bar with live blues acts.

Chris Pope's food will be similar in some ways to the food at Seasons (think rotisserie-cooked meats) but Roessler says he's aiming for something a little more casual and a little less expensive, with a French flair. Construction begins this November and they're hoping to open the basement by December or January.

But what is to become of Seasons, you ask? Don't worry, Roessler says. For several months Seasons has been transitioning in a new team—actually an experienced old team of chef Bob Peterson (formerly of the Scottsdale Seasons) and manager Dana Brown (who's been with Seasons for four years). When we spoke in August, Brown exuded confidence and excitement about both Seasons and the new venture which has yet to be named.

Speaking of Seasons, they're getting a new neighbor in the San Felipe Village center (Mountain and San Felipe). The Melting Pot is a franchised fondue restaurant that serves many, many more kinds of fondue than you even knew existed. When it opens, hopefully sometime this month, it should have a full bar and extensive wine list. For a sneak preview, check out www.meltingpot.com.

The visually and culinarily creative, Kanome: An Asian Diner (Bryn Mawr and Central in Nob Hill) closed its doors mid-August so that owners Albert and Melissa Billotti could concentrate on their new venture, NYPD, also known as New York Pizza Department, which is nearing completion downtown at 215 Central NW. With the NYPD plans underway for many months, Albert had been quietly looking for a buyer respectful of the Kanome's unique interior design when he heard through the grapevine that hot chef Jennifer James was interested in adding to the empire she began with Jennifer James Contemporary Cuisine (2813 San Mateo NE, 505-884-3665). Negotiations proceeded smoothly, the keys were exchanged in late August and Albert told me proudly, "I think she's going to do well and I'm happy to see her get it." He will continue to provide Kanome catering, so don't fear that your favorite dishes are lost forever. Just call (505-265-7773).

And no, no, Jennifer James Contemporary Cuisine is not closing. Chef James is merely expanding her repertoire. This new Nob Hill endeavor is to be called Graze and the name is evocative of the philosophy behind the food. Though the new paint, new sign and crisp white tablecloths will reassure diners that the place is something new and different, Kanome lovers accustomed to swapping and sharing plates for a nibble of this and much of that will love the style of dining at Graze. The menu will consist of dishes sized small enough to allow patrons to order multiples—a perfect system for those of us who can never decide on one thing for dinner.

Asked about the differences between the two concepts, James explained, "Jennifer James [the restaurant] is a small and intimate dining setting, rather than a ‘Let's go graze for a few hours with our friends or go for a late-night snack' kind of place" In feel (and price) Graze will be more casual, more of an every-day dining option. James hopes to open for dinner sometime in October and expand the hours to lunch by the new year. See you there!

The hottest Thai restaurant that side of the Rio Grande finished a major renovation this summer. Tavee and Sagol Yaparwong, owners of the four-year-old Teriyaki Queen (Coors just north of Montaño, 505-890-3406) expanded into the adjacent suite (formerly a Subway), nearly doubling the size of their kitchen and gaining a whole new dining room. More kitchen space has allowed the couple to make significant additions to the menu and buffet, items like steamed salmon, fresh spring rolls and several exotic new curries. Stop by and see for yourself why many people think it's the most authentic Thai food in the city.

I am thrilled to announce that this September, Bookworks and La Cocinita will inaugurate our Great Chefs Series with two days of demonstrations, discussions, signings and dining with James Beard Award-winning chef and cookbook author James Peterson. Peterson is the first nationally acclaimed chef to visit Albuquerque as part of this fabulous program. Join us on Sunday, Sept. 22 at Albuquerque Technical/Vocational Institute where Peterson will discuss his new book, Glorious French Food, take questions from the audience and sign books. He will also demonstrate how to prepare one of the glorious French dishes that will be served at a lavish wine-pairing dinner the following night at Le Café Miche. For details, call Lindsay Lancaster at Bookworks (505-344-8139) or go to www.lacocinita.com and click on Great Chefs Series.

Do you have information for Around Albuquerque? Give us a call 346-0660 ext. 245 or e-mail foodnews@lacocinita.com.

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